Serenbe Style and Soul

with Marie Nygren

Wednesday

18

February 2015

Comfort Food Chronicles: Jasmine Rice and Kale

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When I was a little girl, one of my favorite things to do was visit Aunt Merle with my mother. Merle was mother’s favorite sister and didn’t have any children, so my mother named me after her. The last five generations of my family have had a Merle Marie, though I’ll probably be the last.

When we’d visit, Aunt Merle always made us sticky rice. She’d cook that Comet rice in her Revere Wear on the stovetop: 2 cups water, 1 cup rice, 1 teaspoon salt, bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. My mother made her rice a different way but I loved Aunt Merle’s the most.

Over the years, I’ve made a few modifications: I now use jasmine rice and a rice cooker, which makes it perfectly every time. I also top it with kale I sauté in onions and olive oil. And if I’m really feeling over the top, I’ll do a fried egg with a runny yolk as well.

This is my comfort food. It’s one of the few foods I can always imagine eating, no matter what. Especially on those days when I have so much going on and I’m all wound up, all I can think of is a bowl of jasmine rice.

kale and rice copy

Kale with Onions

Serves 2-4

I tend to like my kale bright green and a bit al dente. So the cooking time is at your discretion.

  • 1/2 cup chopped onion
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 large bunch kale, strip leaves from stems and chop. Should have 8 cups
  • Kosher salt

In a Dutch oven or medium size pot with lid, add onions and oil. Cook over medium heat until golden. Then add kale and 1/4 cup of water. Cover and let steam for 5 minutes. Add salt and toss to incorporate onions.

Cook until desired tenderness.

 

Serve over jasmine rice.

Wednesday

4

February 2015

Linton Hopkins: A Man with A Can and a Plan

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous, Southern Chef Series, Southern Chefs Series

View More: http://jashley.pass.us/serenbe2015

As the founding partner of the Peachtree Road Farmers Market, past president of the Southern Foodways Alliance and board member of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, Linton Hopkins believes deeply in preservation—of culture, tradition and food.

That’s why the man who practices and preaches the gospel of seasonality in his home and many Atlanta restaurants—including Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & Finch and The Café at Linton’s in the Atlanta Botanical Garden—stood in my kitchen during his visit to the Chefs Series a few week ago and made a soup with canned tomatoes.

Like me, Linton believes tomatoes are only for summer. But in soup season, when fresh tomatoes are little more than a memory, he reaches for a can opener and 28 ounces of San Marzanos.

But of course it was much more than that. Linton is high energy, incredibly passionate about food and a charming teacher. So the participants and I got a fascinating lesson in DOP, or a special certification that guarantees that the tomatoes are the San Marzano variety.

He wanted everyone to learn how to break down a duck, so he brought a duck for everyone and we had duck breast with persimmon bacon chutney and rutabaga gratin. We made cashew cheese, a shaved root vegetable salad and tarte tatin. But my favorite was that tomato soup—so simple, so delicious—topped with basil pesto and olive bread croutons. So many ways to have a great meal when fresh produce is in its slowest season.

Linton Hopkins’ Tomato Soup

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • ½ cup sliced yellow onion
  • 4 cups San Marzano canned tomatoes
  • ½ bay leaf
  • 1 each thyme sprig
  • 2 teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup water
  1. Sweat the onions and garlic slowly in oil and butter over medium heat for 10 minutes.
  2. Add the tomato, bay leaf, thyme and salt.
  3. Cook for 10 minutes over medium heat until tomatoes soften.
  4. Add water and cook another 10 minutes.
  5. Remove thyme and bay leaf and puree in batches.
  6. To plate: pour tomato soup into bowl and top with basil pesto and olive bread croutons.

Wednesday

28

January 2015

Pudge

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marie in garden with pudge

Years ago, our family dog was a standard poodle named Scarlett. When she was 9, our housekeeper, Pearl, said, “Scarlett seems to be gaining a little weight. You don’t think she’s pregnant, do you?”

Of course not, we said. She’s infertile; never even been in heat. But she surprised us all by having a tryst with a chow and giving birth to six puppies, two of whom survived, in December 1999. We gave one away and one of the housekeepers from the Inn took the other.

Shortly after that, Scarlett was hit by a car and died two weeks later. The day after she died, the housekeeper brought the puppy back, saying he was too much for her. And he spent the next 15 years by my side.

He was a fat little thing when he was born—so much so that one of Garnie’s friends said he looked like a little pudgeball. So we called him Pudge, though he grew to be a tall, thin dog. I called him a Poo-Chow: He had a poodle body and brain, but his tongue and tail were all chow.

Pudge was an old soul. Never acted like a puppy; never tore up a pair of shoes. People would bring him toys and he’d look at them like, what are these? You don’t think I’m a dog, do you? People would bring him dog biscuits and he’d just look at them sadly, hoping they’d soon figure out all he really wanted was bacon.

Pudge barely tolerated other dogs—he preferred to think he was the only one—but he loved adults. When we lived at the Inn, he’d go on hikes with guests or sit outside their door if he sensed they needed companionship. Then, when we moved into the community, he became my dog. When Steve and I would come home, he’d barely acknowledge Steve before running full-speed to greet me. I’ve had dogs all my life but never had the kind of connection that I did with Pudge.

People always said that, if they saw Pudge, they knew I was nearby. When I worked at the Inn, he’d go with me and stay on the back porch until I was ready to go, enjoying many scraps from the dishwashers while he waited. Pudge also enjoyed letting himself out for a walk around the neighborhood. Visitors would call to tell me they’d “found” my dog—I’d tell them he was fine and sure enough he’d walk himself home. Garnie would say, “Mom, there are leash laws at Serenbe!” But I’d say, “This is Pudge. These were his woods before they were anyone else’s.”

Late last week, Pudge let me know it was time for him to go. He was old, had a heart condition and his back legs couldn’t hold him anymore. So I put on some music, pulled out my mother’s star-shaped candlestick holders and lit some candles to help my faithful little star transition from this world to the next.

Continuing a Nygren family tradition, he died on a rainy day. Rain always plays a part in the most significant moments in our life, including the day Steve and I got married (outside), the birth of our first child and the day we found the farm that is now Serenbe. Pudge will always be a part of Serenbe, where he had an amazing life with someone who absolutely adored him.

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Thursday

22

January 2015

Back to Birmingham: Chris Hastings Loves Us Up Again

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SSS Chris Hastings collage

How far would you go for a great meal?

Some people prefer to stay in their culinary comfort zone and return to the same restaurants over and over. And some travel the world with an open mind and mouth, eating their way through new experiences.

I’m a little of both. I have my local favorites—places where everyone knows my name and order. But I also have no problem hopping in a car or on a plane in search of something delicious. And it’s not just about the food—it’s about the adventure.

So of course I was the first one to say yes when, at the end of chef Chris Hastings’ chefs series visit last fall, one of the participants suggested we take a road trip to his restaurant in Birmingham. No one wanted his class to end, so we planned an overnight trip to see him in his own element. Part of it was about the food, but it was also about spending more time in his presence. Chris is incredibly gracious, down to earth and is an absolute superstar at making people feel at ease around him.

Now this is not the first time I’ve made a pilgrimage to Hot and Hot Fish Club and it will likely not be the last. As he did when I took some friends to see him last spring and fall, Chris came out and told us he was going to “love us up.” And love us up he did.

That love came in the form of a beautiful beet salad, sautéed scallops with mushrooms, greens and Jerusalem artichoke sauce, pasta stuffed with foraged pine needles, roasted duck breast and cake with a funnel cake-like garnish.

We left full and of food but hungry for more of Chris. Good thing he has plans to open Ovenbird, a South American-influenced restaurants, this year.

Stay tuned for tales from future road trips. And in the meantime, tell me where your wanderlust has taken you, what you’ve eaten, what you’ve loved and why.

chris hastings in birmingham

 

 

Wednesday

7

January 2015

Lamb’s Brain Lasagna (Without The Lamb’s Brain)

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lasagne While catching up with a friend on the phone recently, she said she served lasagna instead of turkey for Thanksgiving. The next thing I knew, I was up and on my way to my recipe drawer—it was almost Pavlovian. I sifted through this and that until I put my hands on a recipe I cut off a box of imported pasta more than 30 years ago.

I’ve made the “Wood Grove-style” lasagna many times over the years and it is literally one of the best lasagnas I’ve ever put in my mouth. It calls for lamb’s brain—a step I’ve always skipped because I’ve never had access to lamb’s brain and even if I did, I wouldn’t want to boil and skin it. I also use ground venison instead of the ground beef. But just hearing her say the word “lasagna” inspired a craving for this dish that will not go away until I make it, eat it and tuck that little cardboard cut-out back in my recipe drawer where it belongs.

Lasagne, Wood Grove Style

  • 1 small onion, minced
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 celery stick, finely chopped
  • ½ pound ground beef
  • ¼ pound Parma ham, cut into small pieces
  • ¾ cup dried mushrooms, softened and chopped
  • 1 small lamb’s brain, boiled and skinned (optional)
  • Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
  • ½ glass white wine
  • 1 teaspoon grated Parmesan cheese + more for sprinkling
  • ½ pound peeled tomatoes, put through a sieve
  • 1 pound lasagna noodles
  • 4 tablespoons butter + more for the pan
  • 4 tablespoons flour
  • 2 cups whole milk, heated

Make the béchamel: In a saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons butter and whisk in flour. Let cook on low for a few moments to rid of flour taste. Slowly whisk in warmed milk and stir over medium heat until thickened. Season to taste with salt and fresh grated nutmeg.

Sauté onion, carrot, celery in a skillet with melted butter. When soft, add ground beef or venison, ham, mushrooms and lamb’s brain (if using). Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Add ½ glass white wine, 1 teaspoon grated Parmesan cheese and the tomatoes. Cook until sauce thickens, then let cool. Cook the lasagna noodles in the boiling water and drain. Butter the pan and add a layer of noodles, then sauce mixture, then béchamel sauce and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Repeat. Top with last layer of noodles and cheese. Place in a hot oven for about 10 minutes.

Wednesday

24

December 2014

Love Me Tender(loin)

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I always serve tenderloin at Christmas. People tell me they’re afraid to make one because the meat is expensive and they don’t want to ruin it, but it’s really so simple and incredibly elegant.

Here are seven steps to ensure success:

  1. Start with a really good tenderloin.
  2. If you don’t know how to trim it, have someone do it for you.
  3. Let it come up to room temperature before roasting.
  4. Rub the meat well with olive oil, freshly cracked black pepper, Kosher salt and some sort of seasoned salt. I love the earthy taste that porcini powder gives the crust.
  5. Roast the beef for 18-20 minutes, or until you the center is springy and flexible.
  6. Take it out and let it rest for at least 10 minutes.
  7. Serve it with horseradish cream. Don’t be tempted to use fresh horseradish. Use the prepared and mix it with heavy whipped cream, a little lemon juice and salt.
  8. Slice it with a very sharp knife and serve.

The beauty of the tenderloin is that it can be cooked ahead of time and left sitting in the kitchen while you sit and enjoy the holiday with family and friends.

Merry everything, everyone. May your buffet tables and hearts be full of good things.

IMG_0382

Roast Tenderloin of Beef

  • 1 3-4 pound beef tenderloin
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Porcini mushroom powder (optional)
  • Olive oil

Make sure meat is close to room temperature before roasting.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place meat on a baking sheet. Pour olive oil on beef to coat entire tenderloin. Season with generous amount of salt and pepper, plus porcini powder, if using.

Place beef in oven and roast for 18-20 minutes or until 120 degrees in the center. If no thermometer, touch meat in center top area. Should be easily pressed.

Remove to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minute before slicing.

Note: Porcini powder can be found in some gourmet stores. If not, make your own by placing dried mushrooms in a Cuisinart with a steel blade and process until you have a ground powder.

Wednesday

17

December 2014

A Tale of Two Cities (and Two Hot Dogs!)

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carl_gallery_hotel_3A few weeks ago, I went to New York City for a meeting and met a group of girlfriends for dinner at The Carlyle. Built in 1930 and named for the British essayist Thomas Carlyle, the iconic Upper East Side hotel is a true Manhattan landmark. The Prince of Wales has stayed there. Diana herself stayed there. And what did I do there?

I ate hot dogs.

 

My friend Nancy is a regular in Bemelmans Bar, an art deco lounge where the ceiling is covered in 24-karat gold leaf. Looking down the list of snacks, I saw Osetra caviar, a charcuterie plate, steak tartar with toast points and mini hot dogs.

Five hot dogs. For $19.

I thought, really? Hot dogs at the Carlyle? Then I saw that they were made with Kobe beef and served on brioche buns with housemade relish. And so I had to have them.

They brought out one for each of us. They were bite-size and exquisite. Afterwards we went into the main restaurant and had everything from lobster thermidor to Grand Mariner soufflé, but nothing more fun and fabulous than those tiny hot dogs.

Shortly after I got home, I went to LaGrange, Georgia, for another meeting and spent a little time driving around the town beforehand. Right off the square was a place called Charlie Joseph’s that’d been there since 1920. The sign said they had “world’s best hot dogs,” which piqued my attention for two reasons:

  1. I’d just had what I thought was world’s best hot dog.
  2. I was starving.

photo 2The place is run by Joey Keeth, the grandson of Charlie Joseph himself. And according to the website, Joey is also a good man to call if you need tennis lessons or your tennis racket restrung.

The menu is basic: hot dogs, burgers, chicken salad sandwiches and sweet tea. I only had eyes for the chili slaw dog with relish, which is something I eat once every five years or so. It wasn’t made of Kobe beef—I don’t even want to think about what it was made of—but it was exactly what I wanted it to be.

 

Wednesday

10

December 2014

No Harm, No Fowl: Chefs Play Chicken at the Cluck Off

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View More: http://peachtreephotography.pass.us/serenbe-14

At the 2012 Southern Chefs Potluck, Watershed chef Joe Truex and I started talking about chicken and rice and all the different takes on it around the world. It gave me an idea to create a chicken-and-rice competition between chefs for the 2013 Potluck auction, invite 20 people to eat and judge and call it a “cluck off.” I immediately texted Anne Quatrano to see if she’d participate and she texted yes right back.

Fast forward to the 2013 Potluck, where the Cluck Off went up for live auction as one of the chef experience packages. My daughter, Garnie, won it and Anne—who claimed she’d never agreed to participate—said, “Do you not feed your child, Marie?”

(Just another part of her dry sense of humor that very few people get to see.)

Now let’s fast forward again to a few weeks ago: It’s three days before the Cluck Off, I have no idea what I’m making and I’m starting to wonder if I was delusional when I came up with the idea.

I didn’t want to do something I’d done before and I knew Anne was going to show up and blow us out of the water. But at some point I stopped sweating bullets and started cooking.

Joe did baked chicken with red rice—simple, Southern and delicious. And of course Anne did exactly what I’d predicted: She came with Vietnamese chicken lettuce wraps with flash-fried rice and all kinds of condiments on the side, including housemade fish sauce, radishes, carrots, pickles, cilantro and lettuce she got from a farm in north Georgia. It was off-the-charts amazing.

I took boneless, skinless chicken thighs and marinated them in honey, bourbon, lemon, olive oil and Tabasco overnight, then roasted them in the oven for about 10 minutes. I peeled, chopped and roasted butternut squash with leeks. Sauteed collards with onion and combined everything over rice with some chopped peanuts and scallions on top.

It may look like a long list of ingredients and steps, but once you have all the elements in place, it comes together beautifully.

View More: http://peachtreephotography.pass.us/serenbe-14

Honey Bourbon Roasted Chicken Thighs with Collards, Butternut Squash and Rice

  • Serves 6
  • 12 chicken thighs, skinless
  • 12 strips bacon
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons bourbon
  • 3 tablespoons honey
  • 1 preserved lemon, minced
  • 6 dashes Tabasco
  • 6 cups collards, ribbed and julienned
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 3 cups butternut squash, peeled and cubed
  • 2 leeks, sliced
  • 1/4 cup canola oil
  • Kosher salt
  • 2 cups jasmine rice
  • 1/3 cup roasted peanuts, chopped
  • 1/2 cup scallions, sliced

Place chicken thighs in a ziploc bag. Mix the marinade ingredients in a bowl and pour into the bag. Place in refrigerator and marinate for at least 2 hours or over night.

Place rice, 4 cups water and 2 teaspoons salt in a pot. Bring to boil, then turn down to lowest heat, cover and cook for 20 minutes. Set aside with top on to retain heat.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Place squash and leeks in a bowl. Toss with oil and season with salt. Put on baking sheet and place in oven and roast until tender.

Remove thighs from bag and drain. Wrap each thigh with a bacon strip and secure with toothpick. Place on baking sheet and cook along with squash. 15-20 minutes or until can easily pierce with fork.

Place both squash and thighs in warming drawer or low set oven when ready.

Heat a skillet or Dutch oven with olive oil and sauté collards until tender. Season with salt to taste.

Assembly:

On large platter, layer the rice, then collards, squash, chicken thighs. Garnish with peanuts and scallions.

Wednesday

3

December 2014

Joe Truex and the Grand Dame Gumbo

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View More: http://peachtreephotography.pass.us/serenbe-14

One of the many fabulous recipes chef Joe Truex made during this visit to the Southern Chefs Series—the final one for 2014—was Gumbo Z’Herbes. Much like his gumbo, Joe has many layers. One might be tempted to put him in the country boy category, especially when he says things like …

Today is as bad as it gets at Serenbe. As good as that is, tomorrow is sure to be a little mo’ better.

View More: http://peachtreephotography.pass.us/serenbe-14But Joe is an extremely well read CIA graduate who went from one wildly popular Atlanta restaurant (Repast) to another (Watershed). He’s also a very humble, subtly funny man and a native of Louisiana, where you’re only as good as your last batch of gumbo.

To say it was delicious is an understatement. To say it had a few ingredients is also an understatement. Mustard greens, collard greens, turnips, watercress, beet tops, carrot tops, lettuce, cabbage … and then the meats. Dear God, the meats! There was a pound each of smoked sausage, smoked ham, boneless brisket and hot tasso, that deliciously spicy Creole pork shoulder.

Joe’s recipe is an adaptation of a gumbo made by Leah Chase, one of the grand dames of New Orleans cooking and longtime executive chef of Dookey Chase’s Restaurant in the Tremé. Before our wedding in 1983, Steve’s friends kidnapped and blindfolded him, then flew him to New Orleans for the night. They had dinner at Dookey Chase’s—one of many legendary things that happened that evening, I’m sure.

Gumbo Z’Herbes

  • Serves 8 generously
  • 1 bunch mustard greens
  • 1 bunch collard greens
  • 1 bunch turnips
  • 1 bunch watercress
  • 1 bunch beet tops
  • 1 bunch carrot tops
  • 1 bunch spinach
  • ½ head lettuce
  • ½ head cabbage
  • 2 medium onions, chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, mashed and chopped
  • Water (2-3 quarts)
  • 1 pound smoked sausage
  • 1 pound smoked ham
  • 1 pound boneless brisket
  • 1 pound hot tasso
  • 5 tablespoons flour
  • 1 teaspoons thyme leaves
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon filé powder
  • Steamed rice

Clean all vegetables, making sure to pick up bad leaves and rinse away all grit. Place all vegetables, onions and garlic in a large pot and cover with water. Boil for 30 minutes.

While this is boiling, cut all sausages and meats into bite-size pieces and set aside. Keep tasso pieces separate.

Strain vegetables after boiling and reserve liquid. Place all meats, except tasso, and 2 cups of reserved liquid (save the rest) in a 12-quart stockpot. Steam over high fire for 15 minutes.

While steaming other meats, place the tasso in a skillet over a high fire and stem until tasso is rendered (all grease cooked out), about 10 minutes. Remove the tasso and set aside, keeping the grease in the skillet.

All vegetables must be pureed. This can be done in a food processor or by hand in a meat grinder.

Heat the skillet of tasso grease over a high fire and stir in the flour. Cook this roux for 5 minutes or until floor is cooked (it does not have to brown). Pour roux over meat mixture; stir well. Add vegetables and the remaining two quarts of reserved liquid. Let simmer over a low fire for 20 minutes. Add tasso, thyme, salt and cayenne; stir well.

Simmer for 40 minutes. Add filé powder, stir will and remove from fire. Serve over steamed rice.

Wednesday

26

November 2014

Thanksgiving Traditions, Nygren-Style

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Serenbe Harvest -0077Thanksgiving in the Nygren family is a little less traditional than you might think. When the girls were little and their schools closed for the holiday, we’d take family trips to places like Disney World and Mexico. And when they got older, the whole family pitched in to make Thanksgiving dinner at The Farmhouse a success, often waiting until the end of the night to eat the last few shreds of turkey and dressing.

But we were together, doing what we all do best: Creating an atmosphere where people can enjoy good food … and each other.

That’s the thing about family—we’re together, even when we’re apart. This year, my daughter Kara will spend Thanksgiving with her fiancé, Micah. That’s right, I said “fiancé.” Kara is officially engaged and we will have the first Nygren wedding next fall.

I’m grateful every year for the girls, my family and Serenbe, but this year I’m especially grateful for Micah. I could not have picked a more amazing person to be my daughter’s husband or my son-in-law.

IMG_0926What makes Thanksgiving special isn’t the turkey or the dressing or the buttery crust under your pumpkin pie. It’s the people around the table. The people on the phone. The people sitting next to you on that beach or bench in the middle of Epcot.

When the stars and plans align and we are all around the same table again, I plan to make this arugula salad full of roasted pears, pecans, cheddar cheese and an incredibly easy white balsamic vinaigrette. And we’ll eat and talk and laugh and my heart will be full of love and gratitude. Whether it’s November 27th, December 13th or January 27th, that’s Thanksgiving to me.

Arugula with Roasted Pears, Pecans, Cheddar Cheese and White Balsamic Vinaigrette

Serves 6-8

  • 8 cups arugula, washed
  • Roasted pears, recipe follows
  • 1/2 cup chopped pecans, toasted
  • 4-6 oz sharp white cheddar, shaved into thin strips with vegetable peeler

White balsamic vinaigrette, recipe follows

  • Roasted pears:
  • 4 firm Bartlett Pears, cored and cut into 1/4 inch slices
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 3 tablespoons honey

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Place baking sheet in oven to heat. Combine butter and honey in bowl. Add pears and toss to coat.

Put pieces on heated pan, making sure each slice is flat on surface. Place in oven and roast for 10 minutes until browned. Flip slices and roast another 5- 10 until golden brown. Remove and let cool.

  • Vinaigrette :
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Combine vinegar, honey and salt. Whisk in oil until combined.

To assemble:

Place arugula in a bowl. Toss greens with vinagrette. Place greens on plates. Top with roasted pears, then cheese slices and pecan pieces.