While catching up with a friend on the phone recently, she said she served lasagna instead of turkey for Thanksgiving. The next thing I knew, I was up and on my way to my recipe drawer—it was almost Pavlovian. I sifted through this and that until I put my hands on a recipe I cut off a box of imported pasta more than 30 years ago.

I’ve made the “Wood Grove-style” lasagna many times over the years and it is literally one of the best lasagnas I’ve ever put in my mouth. It calls for lamb’s brain—a step I’ve always skipped because I’ve never had access to lamb’s brain and even if I did, I wouldn’t want to boil and skin it. I also use ground venison instead of the ground beef. But just hearing her say the word “lasagna” inspired a craving for this dish that will not go away until I make it, eat it and tuck that little cardboard cut-out back in my recipe drawer where it belongs.

Lasagne, Wood Grove Style

• 1 small onion, minced
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 1 celery stick, finely chopped
• ½ pound ground beef
• ¼ pound Parma ham, cut into small pieces
• ¾ cup dried mushrooms, softened and chopped
• 1 small lamb’s brain, boiled and skinned (optional)
• Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
• ½ glass white wine
• 1 teaspoon grated Parmesan cheese + more for sprinkling
• ½ pound peeled tomatoes, put through a sieve
• 1 pound lasagna noodles
• 4 tablespoons butter + more for the pan
• 4 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups whole milk, heated

Make the béchamel: In a saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons butter and whisk in flour. Let cook on low for a few moments to rid of flour taste. Slowly whisk in warmed milk and stir over medium heat until thickened. Season to taste with salt and fresh grated nutmeg.

Sauté onion, carrot, celery in a skillet with melted butter. When soft, add ground beef or venison, ham, mushrooms and lamb’s brain (if using). Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Add ½ glass white wine, 1 teaspoon grated Parmesan cheese and the tomatoes. Cook until sauce thickens, then let cool. Cook the lasagna noodles in the boiling water and drain. Butter the pan and add a layer of noodles, then sauce mixture, then béchamel sauce and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Repeat. Top with last layer of noodles and cheese. Place in a hot oven for about 10 minutes.