Photo by Angie Mosier / Fire In My Belly

When most people think of Kevin Gillespie, they think of tattoos, Top Chef and his wonderful Atlanta restaurant, Gunshow. But when I think of Kevin, I think of a teddy bear. He is just so cuddy and precious. For his Southern Chefs Series visit this month, he just walked in—sans apron or knives—and said, “Hey, let’s cook something.”

And did we ever. Kevin brought recipes from his cookbook, Fire In My Belly, and we cooked everything from grilled oyster mushrooms on mascarpone toast with hot giardiniera to his “not your everyday butternut squash soup,” made with cinnamon, pomegranate molasses and masala Punjabi chole curry he gets from the Dekalb Farmers Market in Decatur.

I don’t mind telling you: It was the best butternut squash soup I’ve ever had. It wasn’t creamy, it was chunky and everyone licked the pot clean. It was the first Southern Chefs Series where I didn’t have one—not one!—leftover.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

Kevin Gillespie’s Not Your Everyday Butternut Squash Soup

Feeds 8-10 hungry folks

• 2 tall boy-sized butternut squash, about 3 ½ pounds total
• ¼ cup lard or bacon grease
• 1 softball-size onion, cut into ¾-inch dice
• 3 ribs celery, cut into 3/4 –inch dice
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 1 huge carrot, peeled and cut into 3/4 –inch dice
• 2 tablespoons masala Punjabi chole curry
• 1 teaspoon Sumatra ground cinnamon
• 5 ½ cups no-salt chicken stock
• 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
• 2 teaspoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

Trim the ends from the squash and cut in half lengthwise. Scrape out and discard the pulp and seeds and chop the squash into bite-size chunks. You’ll have about 12 cups. And, yes, you leave the skin on.

Melt the lard in a 4-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Layer the vegetables and salt in the pot in the following order: onion first, then celery, then 1 tablespoon of the salt, then the squash, and finally the carrot. Let the mixture cook until the vegetables on the bottom start to brown, about 5 minutes. Then vigorously stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the browned bits and stirring them into the mixture. Let cook undisturbed for another 5 minutes, then scrape up the brown bits and stir them into the mixture. Continue cooking and scraping up the brown bits every 5 minutes until the squash is tender, about 15 minutes total. This process creates deep flavor. Don’t rush it!

Stir in the curry and cinnamon to coat the vegetables. Add 4 cups of the stock and bring the mixture to a boil. Cut the heat down so that the liquid simmers and let simmer for 20 minutes, stirring now and then. Stir in the vinegar, lemon juice, the remaining 1 tablespoon salt, and the remaining 11⁄2 cups stock; simmer for another 10 minutes.

Serve in warm bowls and drizzle with some pomegranate molasses.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

“This is a chunky, stick-to-your-ribs vegetable soup that’s perfect for a cold winter day. It’s not chile pepper hot, just loaded with spices. I start by dicing butternut squash with the skin on, which adds a rustic texture to the soup and keeps the squash from completely falling apart. I use lard to sauté the squash, onion, celery and carrot so you get a little pork flavor. You could use bacon fat instead. The fat helps to caramelize the vegetables in the pan, creating a deep, savory flavor. The spices are basically warm Indian spices along with some Espelette pepper for heat and pomegranate molasses adds some acidity and sweetness. Look for it in Middle Eastern grocery stores and online. Or make it at home by juicing some pomegranates and boiling the juice until it’s syrupy, like thin honey.”  —From Fire In My Belly

For years my go-to summer cocktail has been the Pimm’s Cup. They’re light, lovely and I could make them in my sleep. Actually, I probably have. But earlier this summer my dear friend Anne Quatrano—chef/owner of Bacchanalia, Abattoir and Floataway Café—introduced me to the best summer cocktail I’ve ever had. And once I cheated on the Pimm’s Cup, I’ve never gone back.

Anne and I were talking about how much we love San Pelligrino sodas. She said she liked the grapefruit the best and mixes it with the Italian aperitif Aperol.

Friends, this drink is to die for. There are two ingredients: Aperol and San Pelligrino grapefruit soda. No muddling. No dashes of bitters or fancy garnishes. The grapefruit gives it sweetness and the Aperol adds a light fennel taste on the back of the tongue.

As much as I adore fall, I’m going to be sad to see the summer season, and my afternoons with this fantastic drink, come to a close.

Pelligrino Grapefruit Cocktail

• 1/3 aperol to 2/3 Pelligrino grapefruit soda

Stir, sip, sit back and sigh.

The 25 Georgia chefs who participated in the fourth annual Southern Chefs Potluck at Serenbe had four rules to follow:

1. Bring 1 side, 1 pickle and 1 dessert.
2. Put them on the table.
3. Sit down, eat and enjoy yourself as a guest.
4. If you show up in your chef whites you will be shot.

A few of them violated the No. 4, but I let them off with the evil eye. How could I be mad when so many talented chefs came together at Serenbe to raise $78,000 for Wholesome Wave Georgia?

Everyone said it was our best year yet and I have to agree. Anne Quatrano (Bacchanalia) brought dry fried pole beans; Kevin Gillespie (Gunshow) brought Jell-O parfait; Chris McDade (Kevin Rathbun’s Steak Bar) brought bacon pecan maple bars and Linton Hopkins (Restaurant Eugene) brought a beautiful peach, Vidalia onion and bacon salad.

I contributed my green tomato and Vidalia onion pickles. Of all the pickle recipes in the world, this is my favorite because it’s the perfect marriage of tart and sweet. There’s a very fine balance between vinegar and sugar in a pickle recipe. And between the green of the tomatoes and the bright red of the cherry bomb peppers, they look gorgeous on a shelf.

Together with Joy, one of my evening cooks at the Farmhouse, I put up 36 quarts last year and was happy to share the harvest at this event.

Green tomato and Vidalia onion pickles

• 3 cups thinly sliced green tomatoes
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
• 1/2 cup cherry bomb peppers
• 5-10 cloves garlic
• 1 teaspoon fennel seed
• 2-3 sprigs fennel blossom or parsley
• 2 cups apple cider vinegar
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup kosher salt

Combine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour the mixture over the vegetables in a large glass bowl and cover with a plate to submerge. Let stand at room temperature until cool. Then place in a plastic container and refrigerate. Good for 1 month.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

With 10 people in the kitchen and a four-item menu including red snapper jowl and white peach semifreddo, most chefs in the Southern Chefs Series are focused on making sure everything goes smoothly. But chef Chris Hastings, chef/owner of the Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama, spent his time with us last month making sure it didn’t.

Right in the middle of a recipe, Chris would stop and switch the process. He saw that teams were doing their own thing and not watching what the others were cooking, so he had them sit down with a cocktail and talk to each other. He showed everyone that cooking isn’t always about getting from start to finish—it’s about conversation, different perspectives and the beauty of spontaneity.

His Hot and Hot Tomato Salad is his signature dish for a reason. Layered with fresh corn, field peas, fried okra and smoked bacon, it’s simple and subtle but tastes like restaurant-quality food. It’s also easy to assemble on the plate, but would also make a great buffet dish.

Before Chris eats, he always says a prayer. When I asked him why, he said, “Marie, I’m always mindful of being thankful.”

I’m thankful he was here last month to share his time and recipes with us.

Hot and Hot Tomato Salad

Serves 6

• 6 large beefsteak tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
• 2 large Golden Delight tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
• 2 large Rainbow tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
• ½ pint Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes
• ¾ cup plus 3 tbsp. balsamic vinaigrette (recipe follows), divided
• 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
• ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
• 1 smoked ham hock
• 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
• 1 fresh thyme sprig
• 1 cup fresh field peas, such as black-eye, pink-eye, crowder, or butter beans
• 3 ears yellow corn, husks and silks removed
• 2 tbsp. peanut oil
• 4 cups vegetable oil
• 30 pieces baby okra, trimmed just under the cap
• ¼ cup buttermilk
• ¼ cup corn flour
• ¼ cup cornmeal
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 6 slices applewood-smoked bacon, cooked until crisp
• ¾ cup chive dressing (recipe follows)
• 6 tbsp. chiffonade of fresh basil

Toss tomatoes with ¾ cup of balsamic vinaigrette. Sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper and marinate at room temperature until ready to serve.

To assemble the salad, arrange tomato slices on 6 plates and surround with whole cherry tomatoes. Top with even spoonfuls of pea and corn mixture. Arrange 5 pieces of fried okra around each plate, and place a slice of crispy bacon on top of each salad. Finish each stack with a drizzle of 1 to 2 tablespoons of chive dressing; garnish with 1 tablespoon of basil chiffonade per plate. Serve immediately.

Balsamic Vinaigrette

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ cup olive oil
• 1 cup finely chopped fresh chives
• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
• ½ cup chopped green onions
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Whisk together all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Be sure to bring the chilled vinaigrette to room temperature and whisk well before serving.

Chive Dressing

• 1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely minced
• 6 tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• ½ tsp. kosher salt
• ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup olive oil
¼ cup crème fraîche

Combine the garlic and chives in small bowl. Add egg yolk, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and whisk to combine. Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream while vigorously whisking. Next, whisk in the crème fraîche. (You may need to add a drop or two of water if dressing is too thick.) Cover and chill the dressing for at least 20 minutes before serving. Keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Next up: The Southern Chefs Series—called “a sleepover for Southern foodies” by Garden & Gun magazine—continues August 25 & 26 with chef Josh Besh. Proceeds benefit Wholesome Wave. Call 770.463.2610 to register.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

When we opened The Farmhouse back in 2005, I interviewed chef Steven Satterfield to run the kitchen. I loved his garden-fresh approach and knew he was doing great things at Watershed with chef Scott Peacock. It’s a good thing it didn’t work out: He went on to open Miller Union, which started a delicious renaissance on Atlanta’s Westside.

We changed things up and cooked dinner outside when Steven came to the Southern Chefs Series last month. I got a Tuscan Italian Grill from Bella Cucina and he grilled his skirt steak over an open flame then served it with a cilantro sauce made with garlic and toasted cumin seeds.

We made two salads on the side: an herb-buttermilk potato salad and a chopped salad with charred onion vinaigrette. In addition to the fresh ingredients, I think a vinaigrette makes any salad. What I love most about it is that it has a recipe but it doesn’t.

Chopped Salad

• 2 small head lettuces
• 1 head iceberg lettuce
• 1 bunch arugula
• 1 bunch kale
• 1 bunch radishes
• 1 fennel bulb
• 1 small cucumber
• 1 small beet
• 1 small carrot
• 1 bunch green beans, blanched
• Parsley, tarragon, chives

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

Charred Onion Vinaigrette

• 1 small red onion, diced
• ½ cup sherry vinegar
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• salt and pepper

In a medium sized skillet, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil on medium-high heat. Add the diced red onion, and season with salt and pepper. Allow to sit until the onions brown and then stir several times, allowing to brown and caramelize, almost blacken. Remove from heat and transfer the browned onions to a plate to cool.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper in a blender and turn on medium speed.  Slowly add olive oil and then increase speed to incorporate.  When emulsified, add the cooled onions and taste.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

The word “tartine” sounds fancy, French and like something that might require hours in the kitchen with a rolling pin and dough. But chef, restaurateur and James Beard Award-winning author Hugh Acheson, who joined us for the Southern Chefs Series last month, is neither French nor fancy—he just knows how to elevate honest, humble food. And with a little country ham, ricotta and fresh, local fruit he transformed a piece of bread into an exciting entrée.

Hugh has a very dry wit. He’s incredibly well organized and methodical in the kitchen, but cracks jokes the entire time. What I love most about him is the simplicity of his food—everything on his menu, from the turnip risotto to peppered strawberries with buttermilk panna cotta, was earthy and approachable.

The word “tartine” means open-faced sandwich: No pie shells, puff pastries or kneading necessary. Hugh toasted bread, buttered it, layered ricotta cheese, country ham, fresh Georgia peaches and mint leaves on top, then drizzled it with local honey. He made it look easy because it is.

Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

Tartines of country ham, ricotta, peaches, mint, and local honey

serves 4

• 4 slices of bread that you love
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• ½ cup fresh ricotta
• 3 ounces thinly sliced county ham or prosciutto
• 2 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
• 2 tablespoons mint leaves
• 2 tablespoons local honey

Toast the bread slices until just lightly browned. Spread each slice with ½ tablespoon of the butter. Then spread each with ¼ cup of ricotta.

In a medium sized bowl, gently toss the country ham slices, peaches, and mint. Arrange the salad on top of the bread and drizzle each with a ½ tablespoon of honey.