Serenbe Style and Soul

with Marie Nygren

Saturday

28

September 2013

Cocktail Infidelity: Why I Cheated on the Pimm’s Cup

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

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For years my go-to summer cocktail has been the Pimm’s Cup. They’re light, lovely and I could make them in my sleep. Actually, I probably have. But earlier this summer my dear friend Anne Quatrano—chef/owner of Bacchanalia, Abattoir and Floataway Café—introduced me to the best summer cocktail I’ve ever had. And once I cheated on the Pimm’s Cup, I’ve never gone back.

Anne and I were talking about how much we love San Pelligrino sodas. She said she liked the grapefruit the best and mixes it with the Italian aperitif Aperol.

Friends, this drink is to die for. There are two ingredients: Aperol and San Pelligrino grapefruit soda. No muddling. No dashes of bitters or fancy garnishes. The grapefruit gives it sweetness and the Aperol adds a light fennel taste on the back of the tongue.

As much as I adore fall, I’m going to be sad to see the summer season, and my afternoons with this fantastic drink, come to a close.

Pelligrino Grapefruit Cocktail
  • 1/3 aperol to 2/3 Pelligrino grapefruit soda

Stir, sip, sit back and sigh.

Wednesday

18

September 2013

Chef John Besh gets the picture

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

2S3U2138Chef John Besh had 26 hours at Serenbe, and I knew most of it would be spent in the kitchen for the Southern Chefs Series. So shortly after he arrived for his first visit to our spot in the Chattahoochee Hill Country, I took the native Louisianan on a tour of the property. I showed him the farm, stables, neighborhoods, shops, restaurants and everything in-between. And with every stop he’d hop out of the car and take picture after picture.

I could just see it on his face: He instantly got the beauty of the area. When we returned to my house, his team had unloaded 6 Mega coolers of food into the backyard for the classes. John took one look at them and said, “Nope, these are going right back in the van. No way are we ruining the scenery in this spot.”

Though I tried to play it cool, I had to pinch myself repeatedly over those two wonderful days last month. Josh Besh, the chef, restaurateur, author and TV personality, was in my kitchen! Cooking roasted black sea bass! I think everyone was a little star-struck because when I asked my friend Jill what name I should write on John’s cup for the day, she said, “Hotness.”

John made a gorgeous seafood paella for lunch on Sunday. It was an intense dish, but the perfect thing to make if you have a whole afternoon and a house full of friends to help. All the recipes from his visit came from Cooking From My Heart, his new cookbook coming out in October.

Thursday

12

September 2013

In a Pickle at the Southern Chefs Potluck

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

The 25 Georgia chefs who participated in the fourth annual Southern Chefs Potluck at Serenbe had four rules to follow:

  1. Bring 1 side, 1 pickle and 1 dessert.
  2. Put them on the table.
  3. Sit down, eat and enjoy yourself as a guest.
  4. If you show up in your chef whites you will be shot.

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A few of them violated the No. 4, but I let them off with the evil eye. How could I be mad when so many talented chefs came together at Serenbe to raise $78,000 for Wholesome Wave Georgia?

Everyone said it was our best year yet and I have to agree. Anne Quatrano (Bacchanalia) brought dry fried pole beans; Kevin Gillespie (Gunshow) brought Jell-O parfait; Chris McDade (Kevin Rathbun’s Steak Bar) brought bacon pecan maple bars and Linton Hopkins (Restaurant Eugene) brought a beautiful peach, Vidalia onion and bacon salad.

I contributed my green tomato and Vidalia onion pickles. Of all the pickle recipes in the world, this is my favorite because it’s the perfect marriage of tart and sweet. There’s a very fine balance between vinegar and sugar in a pickle recipe. And between the green of the tomatoes and the bright red of the cherry bomb peppers, they look gorgeous on a shelf.

Together with Joy, one of my evening cooks at the Farmhouse, I put up 36 quarts last year and was happy to share the harvest at this event.

Green tomato and Vidalia onion pickles
  • 3 cups thinly sliced green tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
  • 1/2 cup cherry bomb peppers
  • 5-10 cloves garlic
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seed
  • 2-3 sprigs fennel blossom or parsley
  • 2 cups apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup kosher salt

Combine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour the mixture over the vegetables in a large glass bowl and cover with a plate to submerge. Let stand at room temperature until cool. Then place in a plastic container and refrigerate. Good for 1 month.

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Tuesday

6

August 2013

Hot and Hotter: Chris Hastings Shares His Signature Salad

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

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Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

With 10 people in the kitchen and a four-item menu including red snapper jowl and white peach semifreddo, most chefs in the Southern Chefs Series are focused on making sure everything goes smoothly. But chef Chris Hastings, chef/owner of the Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama, spent his time with us last month making sure it didn’t.

Right in the middle of a recipe, Chris would stop and switch the process. He saw that teams were doing their own thing and not watching what the others were cooking, so he had them sit down with a cocktail and talk to each other. He showed everyone that cooking isn’t always about getting from start to finish—it’s about conversation, different perspectives and the beauty of spontaneity.

His Hot and Hot Tomato Salad is his signature dish for a reason. Layered with fresh corn, field peas, fried okra and smoked bacon, it’s simple and subtle but tastes like restaurant-quality food. It’s also easy to assemble on the plate, but would also make a great buffet dish.

Before Chris eats, he always says a prayer. When I asked him why, he said, “Marie, I’m always mindful of being thankful.”

I’m thankful he was here last month to share his time and recipes with us.

Hot and Hot Tomato Salad
Serves 6
  • 6 large beefsteak tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
  • 2 large Golden Delight tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
  • 2 large Rainbow tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch slices
  • ½ pint Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes
  • ¾ cup plus 3 tbsp. balsamic vinaigrette (recipe follows), divided
  • 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
  • ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
  • 1 smoked ham hock
  • 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
  • 1 fresh thyme sprig
  • 1 cup fresh field peas, such as black-eye, pink-eye, crowder, or butter beans
  • 3 ears yellow corn, husks and silks removed
  • 2 tbsp. peanut oil
  • 4 cups vegetable oil
  • 30 pieces baby okra, trimmed just under the cap
  • ¼ cup buttermilk
  • ¼ cup corn flour
  • ¼ cup cornmeal
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • 6 slices applewood-smoked bacon, cooked until crisp
  • ¾ cup chive dressing (recipe follows)
  • 6 tbsp. chiffonade of fresh basil

Toss tomatoes with ¾ cup of balsamic vinaigrette. Sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper and marinate at room temperature until ready to serve.

Combine the ham hock, onion, thyme, and field peas in a medium stockpot with enough cold water to cover. Bring peas to a simmer and cook until just tender, about 12 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, drain, and cool. Discard ham hock, onion quarters, and thyme sprig. Place cooled peas in a mixing bowl and set aside.

Shave the kernels off the corncobs. Heat the peanut oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the corn and cook until tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season kernels with salt and pepper to taste, then remove pan from heat and let cool slightly. Toss the corn kernels with the cooked field peas and the remaining 3 tablespoons of vinaigrette; set aside.

To fry the okra,pour vegetable oil into a deep-sided skillet to a depth of 3 inches and heat to 350˚F. Place okra pods in a small bowl with the buttermilk. Toss until well coated. Combine the corn flour, cornmeal, all-purpose flour, salt, and pepper in a medium-size bowl. Drain the okra and toss in the cornmeal mixture. Shake off any excess coating, and fry in hot oil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Drain pods on a paper towel-lined plate, and season with salt and pepper if needed.

To assemble the salad, arrange tomato slices on 6 plates and surround with whole cherry tomatoes. Top with even spoonfuls of pea and corn mixture. Arrange 5 pieces of fried okra around each plate, and place a slice of crispy bacon on top of each salad. Finish each stack with a drizzle of 1 to 2 tablespoons of chive dressing; garnish with 1 tablespoon of basil chiffonade per plate. Serve immediately.

Balsamic Vinaigrette
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 1 cup finely chopped fresh chives
  • 1 cup balsamic vinegar
  • ½ cup chopped green onions
  • Kosher salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Whisk together all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Be sure to bring the chilled vinaigrette to room temperature and whisk well before serving.

Chive Dressing
  • 1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely minced
  • 6 tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup olive oil
¼ cup crème fraîche

Combine the garlic and chives in small bowl. Add egg yolk, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and whisk to combine. Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream while vigorously whisking. Next, whisk in the crème fraîche. (You may need to add a drop or two of water if dressing is too thick.) Cover and chill the dressing for at least 20 minutes before serving. Keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Next up: The Southern Chefs Series—called “a sleepover for Southern foodies” by Garden & Gun magazine—continues August 25 & 26 with chef Josh Besh. Proceeds benefit Wholesome Wave. Call 770.463.2610 to register.

Saturday

6

July 2013

Salad Days: Chopping and Charring with Chef Steven Satterfield

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

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Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

When we opened The Farmhouse back in 2005, I interviewed chef Steven Satterfield to run the kitchen. I loved his garden-fresh approach and knew he was doing great things at Watershed with chef Scott Peacock. It’s a good thing it didn’t work out: He went on to open Miller Union, which started a delicious renaissance on Atlanta’s Westside.

We changed things up and cooked dinner outside when Steven came to the Southern Chefs Series last month. I got a Tuscan Italian Grill from Bella Cucina and he grilled his skirt steak over an open flame then served it with a cilantro sauce made with garlic and toasted cumin seeds.

We made two salads on the side: an herb-buttermilk potato salad and a chopped salad with charred onion vinaigrette. In addition to the fresh ingredients, I think a vinaigrette makes any salad. What I love most about it is that it has a recipe but it doesn’t.

 

Chopped Salad
  • 2 small head lettuces
  • 1 head iceberg lettuce
  • 1 bunch arugula
  • 1 bunch kale
  • 1 bunch radishes
  • 1 fennel bulb
  • 1 small cucumber
  • 1 small beet
  • 1 small carrot
  • 1 bunch green beans, blanched
  • Parsley, tarragon, chives
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Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

Charred Onion Vinaigrette
  • 1 small red onion, diced
  • ½ cup sherry vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • salt and pepper

In a medium sized skillet, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil on medium-high heat. Add the diced red onion, and season with salt and pepper. Allow to sit until the onions brown and then stir several times, allowing to brown and caramelize, almost blacken. Remove from heat and transfer the browned onions to a plate to cool.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper in a blender and turn on medium speed.  Slowly add olive oil and then increase speed to incorporate.  When emulsified, add the cooled onions and taste.

Thursday

6

June 2013

Hugh’s Who: Chef Hugh Acheson Hams It Up

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

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Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

The word “tartine” sounds fancy, French and like something that might require hours in the kitchen with a rolling pin and dough. But chef, restaurateur and James Beard Award-winning author Hugh Acheson, who joined us for the Southern Chefs Series last month, is neither French nor fancy—he just knows how to elevate honest, humble food. And with a little country ham, ricotta and fresh, local fruit he transformed a piece of bread into an exciting entrée.

Hugh has a very dry wit. He’s incredibly well organized and methodical in the kitchen, but cracks jokes the entire time. What I love most about him is the simplicity of his food—everything on his menu, from the turnip risotto to peppered strawberries with buttermilk panna cotta, was earthy and approachable.

The word “tartine” means open-faced sandwich: No pie shells, puff pastries or kneading necessary. Hugh toasted bread, buttered it, layered ricotta cheese, country ham, fresh Georgia peaches and mint leaves on top, then drizzled it with local honey. He made it look easy because it is.

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Photo by Rob Brinson Photography

 

Tartines of country ham, ricotta, peaches, mint, and local honey
serves 4
  • 4 slices of bread that you love
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • ½ cup fresh ricotta
  • 3 ounces thinly sliced county ham or prosciutto
  • 2 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
  • 2 tablespoons mint leaves
  • 2 tablespoons local honey

Toast the bread slices until just lightly browned. Spread each slice with ½ tablespoon of the butter. Then spread each with ¼ cup of ricotta.

In a medium sized bowl, gently toss the country ham slices, peaches, and mint. Arrange the salad on top of the bread and drizzle each with a ½ tablespoon of honey.

Monday

15

April 2013

Engaging Your Senses – the Reveal

Written by , Posted in Miscellaneous

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In the February 20 post Engaging Your Senses, I recommended you try, as an exercise, to approach life with your senses more alert.  How have you done with this?  Did you consider what you can do or experience that engages each of the senses (touch, taste, sight, smell, and hearing)?

For me,  it’s food;  food engages all the senses.

It’s the snap of a bean or the sizzle of bacon, the silkiness of flour, the aroma of garlic and onion sauteing in butter.  I love how food can evoke a memory and not always for its smell.  You might be transported back in time by the sight of a particular food or its taste, or, really, for any of the senses it awakens.  When I’m contemplating something, I ask, “What’s its yumminess factor?”  For me, everything, not just food, has a yumminess factor to consider.  Perhaps I see life through food.  After all, and I’ve said it before, food is what connects us.  We absolutely must have it to thrive, even just to survive, but beyond the necessity of it, food serves as a unifier.

You can travel to another country where the spoken language is other than your own and connect with someone over food, whether it’s something sold in an outdoor market, from a food cart, or from a fine dining or casual eatery.  And, the connection might happen without uttering a word.  Food can be the language.

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If you’ve followed my blog or been to my restaurant The Farmhouse at Serenbe, you know I’m all about fresh food prepared simply to provide maximum nourishment for the body and soul.  One of my favorite restaurants anywhere is le Relais de l’Entrecôte in Paris, and it’s not because they have a lavish or extensive menu of delicacies.  They only serve steak-frites (or steak and chips [fries]) with a delectable sauce and accompanied by a house salad.  That’s it!  It’s simple, nourishing, and perfectly prepared every time!

imagesHaving dined there several times, I know I will see, smell, taste, touch, hear, and experience an amazing meal there.  Those who visit the restaurant for the first time, and probably by recommendation, probably only expect to taste something delicious, with little thought to the rest of the experience, but assuredly, once there, the senses awaken; the experience is fulfilling on so many levels.

I subscribe to a mindset that when we are fully aware of our senses, we are more open to the beauty and grace around us.  When you engage each sense, how does that enrich your life?

Friday

5

April 2013

Chef Andrea Reusing Visits Serenbe

Written by , Posted in marie nygren, Recipe Articles, Southern Chefs Series, The Inn at Serenbe, Wholesome Wave

On a recent spring weekend, the Southern Chefs Series welcomed Chef Andrea Reusing of Chapel Hill’s Lantern Restaurant to my kitchen.  What a weekend it was!

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One of the most exciting aspects of the series for me is the exposure to the many talented chefs and the range of menus, flavors, and experiences they bring to their class.  It’s such a joy to have the opportunity to try different types of cuisine in an intimate class setting.  Sometimes we “travel” to other regions of the country through a guest chef’s chosen menu, and other times, I feel as though we boarded a plane and landed in an exotic locale.  We traveled far with Andrea and what a culinary journey it was!

Chef Andrea enjoying class.

Chef Andrea enjoying class.

Andrea’s menu was inspired and clever.  On Sunday afternoon, we prepared and then enjoyed warm paneer, kombacha and date salad with red watercress, vadouvan shrimp with spicy carrot puree and cardamon rice, and Louisiana tangerine sorbet with candied kumquat.  In Monday’s class, we prepared and happily consumed all night pot-au-fen (French beef stew) with spring vegetables in broth and crushed strawberry mess (see recipe below).

Kombacha and date salad with red watercress - it's gorgeous!

Kombacha and date salad with red watercress – it’s gorgeous!

We are having a fabulous time with each guest chef in the 2013 expanded Southern Chefs Series.  There are still spaces available in future classes.  Proceeds from this year’s series benefit Wholesome Wave.  Visit the Inn at Serenbe online for information on upcoming classes and call the Inn to register for Southern Chefs Series classes, 770 463 2610.

Crushed Strawberry Mess, Delicious!

Crushed Strawberry Mess, Delicious!

Crushed Strawberry Mess

Serves 4

For the meringue:
3 egg whites from jumbo eggs, at room temperature
1/2 cup confectioners sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
a pinch of kosher salt

For the strawberries:
About 25 very ripe strawberries, washed and hulled
3 to 4 tablespoons turbinado sugar, or to taste
2 pinches of kosher salt

For the cream:
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
1 to 2 teaspoons sugar or honey, or to taste
1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise and seeds removed by scraping with a sharp knife

Preheat oven to 200 degrees F.
In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with half the sugar at medium speed until they are foamy.  Beat in the remaining sugar, the cream of tartar, and the pinch of salt until the egg whites are shiny and stiff.  Spoon the mixture onto a baking sheet lined with parchment to form 12 to 14 mounds, and bake for 30 minutes.  Continue to bake for an additional hour with the oven door slightly ajar.  When done, the meringues will be crisp and dry on the outside and tender and fluffy within.  (Serve within 4 hours.)

Place the strawberries in a medium bowl and sprinkle with the sugar and salt.  Crush them with a potato masher or large fork until they are juicy and a spoonable consistency but still chunky.  Let the strawberries sit for 15 minutes before serving.

In the meantime, combine the cream, the sugar or honey, and the vanilla seeds and pulp in a medium bowl (save the vanilla pod for another use).  With a whisk or an electric mixer, whip the cream until it is thickened and softly set but not firm.  Whip the yogurt and fold together.

To serve, arrange the meringues, strawberries and juice, and the cream in layers on a platter or individual plates.

Wednesday

27

March 2013

Mother’s Day at the Farmhouse

Written by , Posted in Serenbe Farmhouse, The Inn at Serenbe

It’s not too early to make plans for Mother’s Day 2013.  Treat the caring mothers in your life to a day or weekend in the country.  The Inn at Serenbe provides comfortable and indulgent accommodations, and there are limitless opportunities for recreation and relaxation for the day or the weekend while visiting Serenbe.

Mother’s Day Menu at the Farmhouse
May 12, 2013 | 11:30am-7pm

Starters
Mixed Lettuces with Pickled Red Onion, Radish,
Feta Cheese, and Lemon Vinaigrette

Entrees
Farmhouse Famous Fried Chicken, or
Seared Trout

Sides
Grits Souffle
Garlic Green Beans
Black Eyed Pea Salad

Dessert
Lemon Pound Cake with Minted Strawberries and Whipped Cream

Please call the Farmhouse at (770) 463-2622 or visit us online at serenbefarmhouse.com to make your dining reservations. For Inn at Serenbe accommodations, please call (770) 463-2610.

Wednesday

27

March 2013

This Week at the Farmhouse

Written by , Posted in Serenbe Farmhouse, Serenbe Playhouse, The Inn at Serenbe

Spring is here, and Easter is only days away!  We have a delicious menu planned for this week and a special menu for Easter.

Join us for dinner |  March 28-30, 6-9pm

Starters
Butternut Squash Soup, or
Serenbe Farms Mixed Greens with Apples, Pecans, Pickled Shallots, Goat Cheese, and Sorghum Vinaigrette

Entrees
Flat Iron Steak with Horseradish Potato Puree, Kale, and Bearnaise Sauce,
Seared Salmon with Serenbe Farms Sunchoke Puree, Toasted Hazelnuts, and Asparagus, or
Margaret’s Cheese Souffle with Horseradish Potato Puree, Kale, and Bearnaise Sauce

Dessert
Banana Pudding Panna Cotta, or
Chocolate Pecan Bourbon Pie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Visit Serenbe this Saturday for the annual Easter Egg Hunt, 11:30am-3pm, on the Inn at Serenbe’s croquet lawn.  Meet the Velveteen Rabbit, hunt for Easter eggs, enjoy face painting and storytelling, and meet our farm animals.  The $5/child admission benefits Serenbe Playhouse’s production of The Velveteen Rabbit, coming this summer.  While here, enjoy the Farmhouse’s famous fried chicken lunch, served from 11:30am until 3pm.

Dine with us on Easter Sunday | 11:30-7pm

Starter
Mixed Lettuces with Serenbe Farms Radishes, Scallions, Feta Cheese, and Mustard Vinaigrette

Entrees
Fried Chicken, or
Baked Ham with Coca Cola Glaze

Sides
Horseradish Potato Salad
Sauteed Asparagus
Roasted Brown Sugar Carrots

Dessert
Sour Cream Pound Cake with Fresh Strawberries and Whipped Cream

Call the Farmhouse at (770) 463-2622 or visit us online at serenbefarmhouse.com to make reservations for the weekend.