Serenbe Style and Soul

with Marie Nygren

Author Archive

Saturday

6

February 2010

0

COMMENTS

How mom began at Mary Mac’s

Written by , Posted in "margaret lupo" "marie nygren", "mary mac's", serenbe

I take for granted what an experience it was to grow up in a place like Mary Mac’s.

When you are in the midst of it, you can not see the wonder of it until you step back to see it from the outside in. I never thought it was particularly strange to have a mom that worked though I was one of the few girls at the time who did. I was born in 1960 and  mom  had a small  restaurant in downtown Atlanta  – Margaret’s Tray Shop. It was a cafeteria style restaurant  that served lunch daily to the office workers. A great many of it’s customers worked for the IRS and when they move their headquarters to the suburbs in 1962, mom lost most of her client base and had to close.




She went to work for Mary McKensie who had started Mary Mac’s in the late ’50s. A few weeks after starting, Mary announced she was getting married and moving to Florida. “Do you want to buy the place Margaret?” she asked. Thus started mom’s amazing time at the restaurant.



Mom had picked up her passion about  food from her mother, Lucille Kennon. Miss Lucille, as she was known in Columbus Ga, had been widowed at a young age and left with 5 children to support. She left the family farm in Salem, Alabama and moved across the river to Columbus. In need of a job, she went to work for the school system and eventually became Georgia’s first female dietitian for the school’s. Mom would go to the kitchen with her mother in the morning before school and then meet her after for the walk back home.


Though mom graduated from Georgia Women’s College with a degree in Latin at the age of 19 and as the valedictorian!, something in that kitchen must have “cooked” her because when she moved to Atlanta several years later as a divorcée with a young son, she went to work for a hotel in Atlanta, then the tray shop and the purchase of Mary Mac’s in 1962.



When I think about it, mother had amazing courage because there wasn’t a lot of societal support for working women. Yet, she had incredible support from her family, especially my grandmother and aunts. All of them working women with college degrees- even my grandmother who had her degree from Pratt Institute.

My mother was constantly encouraging (sometimes pushing) to find a career and a passion. The subject was never about getting married and having children as might have been expected. 

In my family, the women were expected to pursue the career of their choice. And like my mother who watched hers, I choose the world of food to make my mark.

Wednesday

3

February 2010

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COMMENTS

Slow Food

Written by , Posted in "slow food atlanta", serenbe, Southern Chef Series, Watershed

Slow Food is an organization that started in Italy to promote the idea of celebrating the experience of a shared meal with lovingly prepared food- not just a quick fast food bite.

The group received such attention that chapters have been formed all over the world. Atlanta Slow Food is hosting an event that I am excited to tell you about. And it features two of my favorite chefs from our Southern Chef Series, Linton and Kevin.





Slow Food Atlanta is pleased to invite you to 
FAMILY DINNER WITH CARLO PETRINI



Sunday, February 21 
7 p.m. 
Watershed Restaurant 
406 W. Ponce de Leon Ave. 
Decatur, GA 30030



Join seven of Atlanta’s favorite chefs for an intimate, family-style dinner that pays homage to food memories of the South and raises funds for Slow Food’s Terra Madre Foundation.  In addition to sharing five courses of reinterpreted southern family recipes — each course inspired by a food memory from the preparing chef — guests will enjoy a word from Slow Food International Founder Carlo Petrini on the importance of Terra Madre and the future of Slow Food and a rare performance by Emily Saliers of the Indigo Girls.

Chefs for the dinner include Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene, Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill, Steven Satterfield of Miller Union, Kevin Ouzts of The Spotted Trotter, Billy Allin of Cakes & Ale, Scott Peacock of Watershed, and Cathy Conway of Avalon Catering.

Tickets are $150 per person if purchased before Monday, February 15;
Tickets are $175 if purchased after February 15.  
VIP Tickets are $250 per person and include a seat at Carlo Petrini’s table (limited availability).

Purchase your tickets at www.slowfoodatlanta.org. Proceeds from the dinner will be donated directly to Slow Food’s Terra Madre Foundation.

Sponsored by:



Tuesday

2

February 2010

2

COMMENTS

Paint Our Town Red!

Written by , Posted in Paint the town red, serenbe

This weekend in Serenbe is really going to be special. Please join us for a pre Valentine’s celebration as we “Paint the Town Red!” 

All of our businesses, galleries and restaurants are offering fun ideas and promotions for your Valentine shopping. Everything from “red” gifts, a new shop opening, riding lessons, singing and our efforts to offer Help for Haiti. For this weekend only we also have some outside vendors joining us.

We have so many wonderful happenings this weekend, there was just too much to list in one short blog posting. Please click Serenbe to read about all of the festivities.

We can’t wait to see all of you as we Paint the Town Red!”

Friday

29

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Thinking of Mom

Written by , Posted in "mary mac's", serenbe



People always ask me if I cooked as a child in mom’s restaurant and are surprised when I say no. I did cook with mom at home on the weekends in our kitchen but in the restaurant, I only remember drying the silverware, that is all she would have me do!

Actually, Mom didn’t physically cook in the restaurant kitchen either, they were her recipes but she never cooked. Mom had 20-30 people to prep and a kitchen manager. I never saw my mom cooking in the kitchen at the restaurant. She had the bakers, vegetable people, meat people… from my recollection, she never cooked in the kitchen. She would create recipes, she would do that at home but never cooked them.


One thing Mom was famous for besides her cooking was her back scratching. She would go over to her customers, touch them, and scratch their back. People loved that from mom but they also knew that especially at lunch time, a backscratch also mean’t it was time to go. Funny, years later I find myself also reaching out to my customers in a similar way. 

In the past few weeks there has been lots going on. I have been thinking a lot about mom as I’m writing the blog and recently in the Farmhouse  I am signing my mom’s cookbook…. to have 3 woman asking me to sign my mother’s cookbook…. it amazes me. Someone asked me for my red pepper soup recipe the other day and I realized I just kind of put things together. I was able to give her the ingredients but don’t really have the amounts written down.

It still seems weird to me that people ask these things.


…….it even makes me think of my own cookbook one day!


Thursday

28

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Two Days With Linton

Written by , Posted in Linton Hopkins, marie nygren, serenbe, Southern Chef Series

What could be more fun for a Southern foodie than spending 2 days with one of it’s most passionate champions? It was such a pleasure to have Linton Hopkins (Restaurant Eugene and Holeman and Finch) in my kitchen this past Sunday and Monday. He shared not only some of his delicious recipes with us but his extraordinary knowledge about Southern food and it’s history. Stories about sorghum syrup and broken rice, tracing back the origins of some Southern foods.

And then the passion split over into the dishes he came to teach the participants. Braised Beef Short Ribs with Wild Mushroom Risotto and Sautéed Serenbe Farms Spicy Collards, Butternut Squash Soup with Brown Pecan Butter. For lunch Monday, sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnudi with a country ham broth and wild mushrooms. Linton taught the fine art of how to build a salad and stuff deviled eggs (no boundaries- let your imagination go). We finished with Panna Cotta with Coca Cola Cranberry Chutney.
     Then time with Linton- no pretense, no “rock star” attitude. Just sitting around the table in the good old Southern tradition talking about things you love- good food and friends.

                                It was a delicious time in so many ways.

See my next posting for Linton’s gnudi recipe.

Thursday

28

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnudi with Wild Mushrooms and Country Ham Broth

Written by , Posted in Linton Hopkins, Recipe Articles


Gnudi
  • 1 fresh sheep’s milk ricotta cheese
  • 1  large egg
  • 1/3 c  finely grated parmesan cheese
  • ½ tsp  salt
  • 3/4 c  all purpose flour plus additional for coating
1)    Drain ricotta for 24 hours to pull out whey

2)     Mix all and let rest for one hour

3)     Roll into small balls, dust with flour and reserve

4)     Heat salted water to a boil and boil gnudi for 1 and a half minutes. Place immediately into ice water to chill.

5)  When cold remove from water and coat with a small amount of olive oil, reserve












Wild Mushroom Saute
  •  2  c  mixed cleaned mushrooms (morels, chanterelles, porcini, wood ears) Use as many types as you would like or just one or two. Cultivated mushrooms work fine, they are just not as flavorful.
  • 1 ea. shallot, minced
  • 1 ea. lemon, zest
  • 4 tbl  unsalted butter
  • ½ c   chicken stock
  • 3 tbl chopped italian parsley
1)   Cut mushrooms into shapes which highlight their variety, Morels are good if split lengthwise and chanterelles if small enough are great whole.  Porcini are good sliced.

2)    Heat butter over medium high heat until foamy, add shallot and sweat for 1 to 2 min.

3)    Add mushrooms in order of density and desired cooking time (they will cook at different rates)

4)     When all mushrooms are in, bring heat to high and add stock. Reduce till glazed on mushrooms.

5)     Season well with salt and fresh ground black pepper. Add parsley and reserve.


Country Ham Broth
  • 1 qt  chicken stock no salt added
  • 1 oz  country ham scraps, including fat
  • 1 ea  shallot sliced
  • 1 ea  bay leaf
  • 1 tsp  sorghum syrup
1)     Heat ham scraps over high heat until just colored.

2)     Add onions and cook one min, add sorghum then bay leaf and stock.

3)     Cook for 20 min at a simmer.

4)     Strain and reduce by half, reduce.


PLATE
Gnudi, Mushrooms and Broth

Parmesan


1)    Heat a few tbl of oil in thick bottomed pan.
2)   Add gnudi and sauté till colored on two sides and warm throughout.
3)   Divide into 6 bowls.

4)    Top with mushrooms and pour over broth.

5)    Shave parmigiano over the top.


Serves 6

Tuesday

26

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Growing up with Mom

Written by , Posted in "margaret lupo", marie nygren

Growing up with a mom in the restaurant business taught me a lot and helped shape the kind of mother I became.

Our weekday routine consisted of Mom taking us to school in the morning, she went on to work and would pick us up at the end of the day and come back home from 3-5. Each day she brought food home from the restaurant for us to have for dinner. At 5 she would go back to work and come home again at 8. Dad went to the restaurant around dinner hour and closed up and got home around 10.

Mom would fix his dinner every night at 10 and Dad would eat on a TV tray, that was their routine every night. Can’t believe mom would do that every night after her full day at Mary Mac’s.

Dad was much more behind the scenes: he did all the produce buying, maintenance of equipment and was only there at night time. He didn’t have anything to do with running the restaurant, that was all mother.

(here is a picture of mom and dad on vacation. Would you believe I couldn’t find one picture of mom in the restaurant to share with you?)


Mother loved her restaurant, that is where she got her fulfillment. She was a trailblazer.  I believe that part of my love for cooking truly comes from my heritage. How could it not?…when mom was pregnant with me she was always in the kitchen so I always say my love began in utero.

Family dinners are one of the most important thing to me and continues to be a huge part of my family’s life even now that my girls are grown. I suppose that is my response to the way our life was when I was a young girl and my mom was always in the restaurant. Steve and I always prioritized spending time with our girls, especially in their younger years.

It really is true, how much your mother shapes your life.

Wednesday

20

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Getting ready for Linton

Written by , Posted in "holman and finch", Linton Hopkins, serenbe

Our cousin Caroline and her husband Steve took Steve and I to dinner last night to celebrate my 50th birthday. In anticipation of Linton’s upcoming weekend for the Southern Chef Series, I chose Holman & Finch. What an amazing meal!

Whenever I go out to eat, I usually make a meal of appetizers as I feel they are more interesting and creative compared to the main dishes. The beauty of H & F is all the plates are like the appetizer section- all creative and many are very unusual. And everything is suggested to share- another favorite food activity of mine. (It is a Nygren family tradition when the 5 of us go out to eat that we rotate plates around the table so everyone gets a taste!)

Every dish last night was delicious…… Fish & Chips, Steak Tartare, Fried Oysters, Skate Wing with Fennel, Brussel Sprouts with Benton’s Ham, Roasted Haruki Turnips, Watermelon Radish salad, and Chocolate Sticky Toffee Pudding cake.

We shared it all and cleaned our plates. I was sopping up the sauces with H & F’s fabulous bread. Every time I eat there it reconfirms what I read in a recent article that one of Atlanta chef’s favorite places to eat when they go out is H & F. And as we were finishing our dinner, Steve’s partner from his Peasant restaurant days, Bob Amick was coming in for dinner with his family. Linton knows his stuff!

It should be a fun filled and delicious class this weekend. I am personally looking forward to making the gnocchi!

There is one opening left if you would like to join Linton in my kitchen with 9 other guests. Call 770.463.2610 for reservations.

**photo by James Camp

Tuesday

19

January 2010

2

COMMENTS

My journey with cooking

Written by , Posted in "john kessler", "mary mac's", marie nygren

A short time ago John Kessler posted on his blog an article about Mary Mac’s. He mentioned a dish he wasn’t too fond of and received many comments on how could he say anything about Southern food when he was not a Southerner. This along with my daughters’ urging…

“Mom, you need to tell the story of your heritage.”

I began to think about what Mary Mac’s meant to the city of Atlanta and most importantly what mom meant to me.

My mom was the queen of Dixie cuisine, I often think how do I embrace it?

Growing up in the restaurant makes me realize you have to fully embrace your heritage before you can claim your spot. I sometimes forget that I now have my own restaurant.

I just kind of happened into it, it’s not like I set out to have my own restaurant. For me, I aspire for the Farmhouse to be good food and soulful …..it’s just a different version of my mother’s.

What I really fully appreciate more about mother was that she created an environment, it was all about good nourishing simple southern food.

Half of the experience in Mary Mac’s was my mother and what she created by being an amazing southern hostess, coming from her graciousness. Creating an atmosphere that is welcoming, you feel good there, that is what Mother’s restaurant was. 


It was as if it were her personal dining room. For some people it was like coming home.

to be continued…… my plan is to have my story as a weekly posting so stay tuned…..


**photo from John’s blog

Saturday

16

January 2010

0

COMMENTS

Southern Chef Series

Written by , Posted in inn at serenbe, Southern Chef Series

I am so excited today! We just began to publicize our newest addition to the Southern Chef Series, Kevin Gillespie from Woodfire Grill and Top Chef when yesterday we were featured on a posting by Garden & Gun’s blog Talk of the South.

And today we are SOLD OUT for Kevin and Linton Hopkins is very close to being filled up as well…only one opening left for him.

Wow, I didn’t even have time to get Kevin listed on my blog before he sold out…. so amazing.





Click on picture to see full size press release.

There is still time to sign up for other chefs in our series. We can also add you to a waiting list in case we have any cancellations for Kevin. Call 770.463.2610 for reservations.

Because of all the interest in our series, yesterday I also had the most amount of one day hits to the blog than ever before!!!…….754 for one day. I hope all of my new readers continue to follow….. lots more fun things to come.